This is My Ride: New Zealand Bikepacking
A few months ago I went on a three-week gravel bikepacking trip across the South Island of New Zealand on my Argon 18 Dark Matter. Together with two friends, we rode 1881 km with 19,000 meters of elevation over 19 days (including three rest days). We started in Christchurch, and rode north to Picton, then westward toward the coast, following the coastline south through Franz Josef before crossing over the alps to Queenstown, and finally riding back north to Lake Tekapo where we wrapped up the trip and caught a bus back to Christchurch.
I normally work a full-time job in tech, and spend most of my days in meetings. I was lucky to get three months off to travel, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to visit New Zealand. It had always been high on my list, but invariably seemed too far away from Europe. I was drawn to the epic landscapes, the rough mountains, and crystal blue lakes, and it seemed like the perfect destination for bikepacking, where you can really get immersed in nature. The more we researched the trip, the better it seemed – incredible gravel roads, temperate climate, and long stretches of undisturbed wilderness.
It didn’t disappoint. The landscapes were gorgeous, as expected, but I was particularly surprised by the rapid changes and wide variety of both the surroundings and climate. From one day to the next, we’d pass from dry valleys to tropical coastines, to vineyards and forests, river crossings and lakes, and through mountains and glaciers. Many days felt like crossing from one country to another, or even between climate zones and continents. I particularly loved the yellow, dry plains and mountain valleys in Awatere Valley and between Omarama and Lake Tekapo, where you ride hours and hours on amazing gravel roads and single track with views of mountains and crystal blue lakes, and no civilization in sight.
For the trip, I rode the Dark Matter with Specialized Pathfinder 42 tires, and I was very happy with the setup. Most of our route was on smooth, hard-packed gravel, but we also had sections on chunkier paths, single track, countless river crossings, and longer stretches on tarmac, especially along the coast. The Dark Matter was fast and smooth on the tarmac and gravel roads, and the handling was solid and stable on the rougher trails, even fully loaded. It’s also light enough that I could carry it on river crossings when needed! Thanks to the comfortable geometry, I had no pain or comfort issues, and was able to just enjoy the many hours in the saddle.
Throughout the trip, we stayed in hostels, hotels, private BnB’s, and campgrounds, restocked on snacks in village supermarkets, cooked numerous meals in campground community kitchens, and dined in local pubs and community restaurants. It was often far between villages, accommodation, grocery shops, and food options, so the trip required solid planning to have the accommodations and food we needed. Sometimes we biked the whole day without seeing anyone else, and we stayed at multiple hotels without restaurants and far from other dining options. With a bit of foresight this was no problem, and most days, we’d find small restaurants where we could dine with locals.
Because we weren’t camping, we could pack pretty light. I brought a 14L saddle bag, a 9L handlebar bag, and a toptube snack bag. The Dark Matter’s many mounting points meant they all fit neatly on the bike and provided room for all the essentials: a spare cycling kit, a set of clothes, spare mechanical parts, a first aid kit, off-bike shoes, toiletries, a deck of cards, my Kindle, and lots of SPF 50. I also brought a hydration vest, which was handy for some of the long, desolate stretches and for carrying extra energy on longer days. It was eye-opening, and probably very healthy, to spend a few weeks with just the bare essentials. I loved the simple lifestyle and daily routine, and the experience really proved that it is neither material goods nor luxurious surroundings that make me happy.
All in all, the trip was incredibly smooth - we had no mechanicals, no injuries, and no logistical issues. The main challenge we faced came down to bad weather. Rain and wind are common on the west coast, but an unusually strong storm brought the coastal area into a state of emergency, and the only coastal road was partially closed. Fortunately, the storm coincided with our pre-planned rest day, and everything cleared up by the time we jumped on our bikes again.
I would definitely recommend the Dark Matter for adventures in varying terrain and over long distances. It’s extremely versatile – we pretty much encountered every possible surface, and it handled them all perfectly. Also, you really can’t overstate how important it is to be conformable on a long trip. On the Dark Matter I had no complaints and was able to simply enjoy the adventure. Even on the very last day, on a trail filled with fast gravel and chunky descents, the Dark Matter felt fast, confident, and comfortable.
If you go, definitely bring gear for all types of weather, consider keeping your schedule flexible to adjust along the way, and bring spares since you won’t see many bike shops. Be aware that the road network is relatively sparse so there are typically not many alternative route options along the way. I was happy with our route, and particularly loved our sections along the official “Great Rides of New Zealand” bike trails such as the Alps2Ocean Trail. The official trails are top quality, and go through amazing areas. Most of our favorite sections were on these trails, and if I were to go back, I would want to check out the Queenstown Trail or Around the Mountains Trail.